On the Road to Wiscasset and Damariscotta and the Best Oysters of Our Lives

We had an adventurous time getting to our next destination, taking the blue roads along the coast to check out two small towns: Wiscasset and Damariscotta. Both are known for having excellent seafood. At Wiscasset, it’s the lobster roll at Red’s Eats. Inn Damariscotta, it’s the oysters. They are said to be terrific just about anywhere you order them in town: they come from the oyster beds in the Daramiscotta River. But Jan, a friend we made at the wedding, said “There’s nothing like sitting down to a plate of oysters at King Eider’s Pub.” She was so right. There’s nothing like it in the world. The oysters were so fresh, so briny, so magical. They made our throats tingle. We had one taste and it took about half a second for us to look at each other and know. These were the best oysters of our lives.

More about the oysters, Red’s, and our trip to Rockland, after the jump.

Wiscasset is only about 20 minutes from Rory’s farm.

It’s a tiny little town — no more than three blocks long and six blocks wide, really.

And right at the water’s edge is a little lobster shack called Red’s Eats.

As you can see from the photo, the lines are legendary. I suggested one of us get in line while the other explored, and then we could trade spots and the other could go explore. But Greg was having none of it. He didn’t want to wait in line. He didn’t care if I did, through, so after a little bit of browsing —

— that’s what I decided I would do.

Greg picked up a nosh from a cheese shop and went down by the water to eat it. I stood in the line. For 25 minutes. Finally, having only gotten a quarter of the way toward the front of the line, I decided to give up. I may have missed the best lobster roll of my life. May not have.

We were on our way to Damariscotta.

Here’s the Damariscotta Bay.

A nice house with a red chair.

King Eider’s Pub:

We’re excited for oysters! We get a booth by the window:

The view from the window:

In between those two buildings is parking lot. On the other side of that is the bay. There were some regulars at the bar:

On the ceiling hang these ceramic mugs, made in Wiscasset, we were told. They each have a number on the bottom. When a regular comes in, he or she drinks from her mug.

It comes with discounts and stuff, too. Having eating the food at King Eider’s, I am so wishing I could become a member of the mug club. It would mean I was a regular.

A King Eider is a sea duck, which lives in cold climes. Wikipedia link here. So the logo of the pub is a cute-looking duck:

Here they are. Those glistening beauties:

I called the pub later and found that the vendor that sells these is called the Glidden Point Oyster Company. If you’re planning on ordering any, these are called the Damariscotta River Oysters — Selects.

Greg is about to dig in. Little does he know what joy awaits him.

We also ordered some crab cakes, which were effortlessly light and sweet:

All gone. This is such a sad, sad sight:

Thank you King Eider’s.

And thank you, Jan, for the best tip of the trip.

After we mourned our lunch, we walked around the town a little:

Very cute, with some nice souvenir shops and a couple of cute dress shops.

After that, we got on the road to Rockland. Here’s a look at downtown Rockland as we’re passing through on our way to Jeff and Theresa’s:

We arrived at Jeff and Theresa’s just in time for cocktail hour, which they do with aplomb.

They are posing with the local gin and vermouth they used to welcome us to their home.

What a lovely way to wind down — and get ready for another amazing meal. Our next post comes to you from Primo, one of the best restaurants on the East Coast.

Bottoms up, Greg!

PS: The 411 on King Eider’s Pub: 2 Elm St., Darmiscotta, Me. 207-563-6008. kingeiderspub.com