The Barnes Foundation in Philadelphia

In a mansion in a leafy suburban neighborhood near the Main Line in Philadelphia, there’s a collection of Impressionist and Modern paintings like you’ve never seen in one place before: 181 Renoirs; 169 Cézannes; 46 Picassos; 21 Soutines; 4 Manets, 4 Monets and 7 Matisses, including “The Dance II,’ a 47-foot mural specifically commissioned to span the three arches in the main gallery.

The collection was amassed by Albert Barnes, who invented an antiseptic called Argyrol, made millions, and established the Barnes Foundation in 1922. The collection is set to move to a new building on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway – home to the Philadelphia Musuem of Art (yes, the one with the “Rocky” steps), among others.

As part of a press tour, Boo and I were invited to see the art in its original location, and then to check out the construction of the new building downtown.

It was quite an experience, and I wish I was permitted to take photos of the paintings. (They are mostly paintings, but there is also an interesting collection of ironworks and furniture.) Here’s a sample of what just one wall in the main gallery looked like:

AP Photo/George Widman

The walls are hung from floor to ceiling with the art and these ironworks (many of which have practical uses, such as door hinges, kitchen tools, etc.), and Barnes stipulated that after his death that the arrangements he made were not to be altered in any fashion.

This made it controversial to consider moving the collection to a new location, but in the end, a compromise was reached. (Well, I suppose that depends on whom you ask; at any rate, the collection is moving.) The walls will be hung the same way, with the same proportions, though some space will be added between galleries, and a separate public space will be built on the new property. Here’s a a link to the New York Times topic, which has whole lot of information on the foundation, the controversy and the collection. There’s also a movie, which Boo watched and enjoyed (but I haven’t seen yet) about the controversy: The Art of the Steal.

The original property is also home to an arborteum with a beautiful collection of trees and plants and a highly respected education program. These will remain at the original location.

Come take a look!

The exterior of the original building, which Barnes built specifically to house his art collection:

A guest house on the property where we watched a presentation about the new building and its architects, Tod Williams and Billie Tsien.

Arboretum signage:

Walking through the rose garden:

I was quite taken with these trees:

 

]

I thought the bark was so fascinating:

We also took a look at the construction site where the new building will go. Not much to see, but here are two snaps:

Watch the Barnes web site for updates, and I hope we’ll go back next summer to see the new museum.