SCF fans might remember chef Andrew Carmellini from our trip to Locanda Verde a while back and also from this piece of mine on the future of dining in Arrive mag (which was nominated for best magazine feature by the Association of Food Journalists!) Even though he’s been well known among foodies — he was executive chef at Cafe Boulud for a long time — he’s suddenly become quite the celebrity chef, partly thanks to this new restaurant of his called The Dutch.
The restaurant, in the heart of the village, serves American food — that is, our new America. There are Asian “White Boy” ribs, Mexican corn on the cob and black cod with smoked mushrooms and yuzu broth.
It’s really a hot spot, so we were using our AARP sensibilities to get there early and get a table. We were among the first ones in the joint.
Boo got an Aviation Royale, which is like a regular Aviation but with bubbly on top. Yum.
As usual, we couldn’t decide among all the lovely appetizers. So we got three.
The Asian White Boy Ribs:
Short ribs with soy and hoisin and all kinds of yummy Asian goodness. Delishy.
Crab with Bloody Mary sauce and green goddess:
Good but I think we were missing the green goddess?
And shrimp over fried green tomatoes with pepper sauce:
Very good. The pepper sauce was like a romesco if I remember correctly.
Then we each got fish for our entrees.
The aforementioned black cod with smoked mushrooms and yuzu citrus broth:
Light but also very flavorful and satisfying.
And the swordfish with summer beans, mustard and pine nuts:
By the time we were finished with our entrees, the restaurant was filling up considerably.
I went for a dessert. Not having an aviation and all. Peach and sour cherry cobbler, I believe:
All in all a fun and delicious meal. I will be back!
The Dutch: A casual but cool modern-American restaurant by chef Andrew Carmellini. Seasonal cooking, American leanings, Asian and Latin inspiration, too. The scene is hip but the food is very good. There’s an oyster bar, too. 131 Sullivan St., Manhattan. 212-677-6200; www.thedutchnyc.com.
